Landing in Geneva, our first day began auspiciously with 65°F blue skies and a new convertible (our reserved sedan was unavailable) to drive us west into the Jura. Tripp (domestic cheese buyer for our Cambridge shop), and Sarah (Tripp’s counterpart at the South End), and I marveled at the snow-capped mountains in the eastern distance and how the yellow brilliance of patched rapeseed fields rested calmly in their spaces. The three of us were in France to visit with cheesemakers and food producers, checking in with old friends and making new ones. Climbing up into the hills, we arrived at our first destination, Fromageries Marcel Petite at Fort St. Antoine. (more…)
Archive for the ‘France’ Category
Posted in Cheese, France, Jams & Preserves, Producer Profile, Travelogues, tagged Ardi Gasna, Arraya, Cheese, Christian Pardou, Claude Querry, Comté, Désiré Loyatho, Espelette, Ferme Fagaldia, food, Fort Saint Antoine, France, Fromageries Marcel Petite, Hotel Arraya, Kati Loyatho, Les Bergers du Haut-Béarn, Marcel Petite, Ossau-Iraty, Pardou, Piment d'Espelette, San Sebastián, Sebastien Fagoaga, travel on September 10, 2013 | 6 Comments »
Posted in Beverages, Education, Food History, France, Wine, tagged Champagne, disgorgement, disgorging, Dom Perignon, fermentation, négociant-manipulant, récoltant-manipulant, riddling, second fermentation, sparkling wine, Wine on August 22, 2013 | 1 Comment »
In part one of this sparkling wine series, we explored the many ways wines can become bubbly. In this post, we focus just on Champagne. The Champagne region of France is considered to be the home of the world’s finest sparkling wines. Champagne is so famous, in fact, that it’s common for folks to refer to any bubbly wine as Champagne, however true Champagne is produced only within the boundaries of the designated province. European Union law forbids the use of the word Champagne on wines made anywhere else, as do the laws of many countries (including the United States). (more…)
Posted in Beverages, Education, Food History, France, Wine, tagged carbonation, Champagne, Charmat Method, disgorging, fermentation, first fermentation, lees, Méthode Traditionnelle, Methode Ancestrale, riddling, second fermentation, Traditional Method, Wine on August 2, 2013 | 6 Comments »
When we pop the cork of a sparkling wine at a party a flurry of bubbles are released. We love sipping those bubbles, but how do they get in the bottle? There are several ways that it can happen.
Sparkling wine is bubbly because carbon dioxide gas, a byproduct of fermentation, is trapped within the wine. During fermentation yeast feeds on the grape juice’s natural sugars and produces heat, alcohol, and carbon dioxide. During the initial fermentation, this gas is released into the air. When wine is allowed (or encouraged!) to undergo a second fermentation within the bottle the carbon dioxide gas is trapped inside in the form of bubbles.
The following methods are a few different ways to produce bubbles in a bottle of wine. There is a lot more information behind each of these techniques, but this is a good start to get the general idea. We’ll start with the oldest method and move forward through time and technological advances. (more…)
Posted in Cheese, France, Producer Profile, Travelogues, tagged affineur, Cheese, Claude Querry, Comté, food, Fort Saint Antoine, Fromageries Marcel Petite, Jura, Marcel Petite, Montbéliarde on July 11, 2013 | Leave a Comment »
What makes Comté so incredibly special? And, why is it a cheese I find myself drawn to time and again, lured in as if it had cast a spell on me? Of course, it’s one of France’s classic cow milk cheeses – a firm mountain cheese that was among the first to receive protected status. There are the requirements of the appellation that set it apart – Comté cheese must be made with milk from cows of the Montbéliarde (95%) and Simmental (5%) breeds. It must also be made within the regions of Doubs, Jura and Ain in France – and, the cow feed has to be from pastures within a 30km radius of the fruitière making it (a fruitière is a facility where milk from the community is pooled – generally this system exists in areas where large cheeses, like Comté, are made - Parmigiano Reggiano would be a similar example in Italy). (more…)
Posted in Breads, Crackers & Snacks, Food History, France, Producer Profile, tagged Apollonia Poilâne, bread, food, Ibu Poilâne, Lionel Poilâne, pain au levain, Pain Poilâne, Pierre Poilâne, Poilâne bread on March 29, 2013 | 7 Comments »
If you love good bread, chances are you will be familiar with the name Poilâne. We started working with Lionel Poilâne in the mid-90s, flying his bread in each week to supply a small, but growing group of customers who had developed a taste for his dense and flavorful bread while traveling abroad. Since the ”Ici Pain Poilâne” sign went up in our shop, the demand for this famed French bread has steadily increased. (more…)
Posted in France, Italy, Wine, tagged Andre Beaufort, Cascina Corte, Chianti Colli Senesi, Giovanna Tiezzi, Grand Cru Ambonnay, I Clivi, Julien Guillot, Marc Gillemot, Millésime Bio, Pacina, Pierrette Michel, Quintaine, Sandro Barosi, Stefano Borsa, Vignes du Maynes, Viré Clessé, Wine on March 4, 2013 | Leave a Comment »
This year marks the twentieth anniversary of Millésime Bio which has arguably become France’s most compelling organic wine exposition. As in previous years, it once again convened in Languedoc’s Montpellier and I had the opportunity to experience the show for the fourth consecutive year. For me, it’s a pause from the retail side of wine buying – a chance to revisit the producer/supplier side of the job. As usual, it involved the intersection of cultural, linguistic, visual, and visceral stimuli that allowed me to hone and redefine my palate as a taster. I discovered a few producers whose wines that I had never tasted, and gained further insight into some of the producers that we currently support. Below are some of the highlights that I hope will trickle into our selection soon! (more…)
Posted in France, Honey, Producer Profile, tagged Brigitte Bresc, Estelle Bresc, food, Honey, Jean Bresc, Lo Brusc, monovarietal, Pierre Bresc, Provence, single varietal honey on October 26, 2012 | Leave a Comment »
In the early 90s, Ihsan and Valerie were invited by one of our customers to stay at a lovely château in Provence while on a food sourcing trip. Located near the town of Abt, about halfway between Toulouse and the Atlantic Ocean, the surroundings were picturesque and, as Ihsan recalls, “breathtaking.” The villa served as a wonderful base from which to explore the region and led to some of Ihsan and Valerie’s earliest finds – ones that have stood the test of time – like Durand chocolates and miellerie: Lo Brusc. (more…)
Posted in Beverages, Drinks & Cocktails, Education, France, Pairings, Producer Profile, Recipes, Wine, tagged Briottet, cocktails, crème de cassis, El Diablo, Felix Kir, Green Street Grill, Kir, Kir Pétillant, Kir Royale, Pompier, vermouth on June 7, 2012 | 3 Comments »
This week we’re highlighting one of our favorite French liqueurs, the inky black currant flavored Crème de Cassis de Dijon. These sweet little bottles of crème de cassis are made in Burgundy by Briottet, a company run by the Briottet family in the town of Dijon since 1836.
Briottet makes their crème de cassis with only “Noir de Bourgogne” black currants. The word “crème” signifies that the liqueur is made from macerated, real fruit rather than flavorings and, the addition of the name Dijon means that the currants (“cassis”) used were grown only in the commune of Dijon. These currants are picked quickly at their peak ripeness and are immediately immersed in alcohol where they macerate for 3 months. Sugar is then added to balance out the tart flavor of the currants – it also makes the liqueur syrupy. Upon completion, crème de cassis has about the same alcohol content as port. (more…)
Posted in France, Herbs, Spices, Salts & Peppers, Producer Profile, Travelogues, tagged AOC, Aoxa d’Espelette, Espelette, Ihsan Gurdal, pepper, pepper flakes, pepper puree, Piment d'Espelette, piperrada, Valerie Gurdal on November 18, 2011 | Leave a Comment »
About this time last year, while traveling through the Pyrenees mountains, Valerie, Ihsan and I stopped for a few days to pay a visit to the small farm that produces one of our favorite products: Piment d’Espelette AOC. Piment d’Espelette (translation: peppers from Espelette) are bright red peppers grown in the town of Espelette and 9 surrounding communes. These peppers have a delicate, sweet-fruity flavor and a medium spiciness, a little milder than your average jalapeño. They’re most often sold dried, whole or pulverized into a flaky powder. (more…)
There are a few things one learns pretty quickly as a cheesemonger. Among them are that brebis generally come from the Pyrenées and small-format goat cheeses are closely associated with the Loire Valley. Of course, there are exceptions but, as general rules, these guidelines have served me pretty well. (more…)