Matcha can be a rather confusing category of tea. This is because, in the United States, there is no strict classification of different varieties. In Japan, “matcha” refers to a particular variety of very finely ground green tea. Historically, the Japanese tea ceremony has revolved around the preparation of this tea. These days, matcha is used in a number of ways – from cooking applications (in ice cream and mochi), to drinking applications, to classic Japanese tea ceremonies.
True Japanese matcha – or, “tencha” as it is called more specifically – is made from the delicate shade-grown tea leaves used to make Gyokuro tea. The tea trees are covered in cloth to protect the leaves from light during the several week period before harvest. This process forces the plant to produce more chlorophyll, increases the production of amino acids and gives the leaves a very dark, rich shade of green. The leaves are then delicately hand-picked and laid flat to dry (if they were rolled, they would become Gyokuru tea). At this point, the leaves are de-veined, de-stemmed and finely ground into a powder which is then called “tencha.” This high-grade tencha has an intense sweetness and round richness that is unparalleled. Tencha is the only tea that qualifies as true matcha in Japan, despite the fact that most “matcha” sold in the United States is not tencha.
Tencha and Sencha: Note the color difference between the two.
So then, what have you been buying all this time? Because of the extremely high cost of producing tencha, many tea suppliers and retailers have been marketing ground sencha as matcha. Sencha is a beautiful Japanese green tea that is bright, vegetal and grassy. The buds and broken leaves of the sencha tea are ground into a powder to make a less-expensive matcha-like tea. Technically, this type of tea is known as “konacha” (literally, powdered tea). Powdered sencha is quite a bit more intense in flavor than tencha and can have a rather tannic and astringent finish.
I think that both tencha and ground sencha have a place in a well-stocked tea shop. One of my favorite treats is homemade green tea ice cream. I find that the intense flavors found in the ground sencha are perfect for this and other baking applications. As for tencha, I must admit that I swoon for this tea. I have shelled out $35 for just a few grams of it – it’s that amazing. This tea should be enjoyed as it has been for centuries: place a small amount of tencha in a ceramic bowl, add hot water (not boiling – aim for 175°F) and whisk with a bamboo whisk until the tea has totally dissolved. Enjoy right away!
Julia Hallman wears many hats at Formaggio Kitchen Cambridge – among them are cheesemonger, classroom instructor and tea buyer.
Posted in Education, Tea | Tagged food, Gyokuru, Gyokuru tea, Japanese tea, matcha, sencha, tea, tea ceremony, tencha | 2 Comments »
It’s springtime, and you can just begin to smell it in the air as the damp ground warms up and the bulbs start pushing through. In the cheese world, there is similar rejoicing, because kidding season (when goats have their babies!) has just passed and the best of springtime chèvres are appearing in the cheese case. Paired with a mineral-driven white, these little goat cheeses make a perfect afternoon snack or appetizer to welcome in spring! Continue Reading »
Posted in Cheese, Pairings, Wine | Tagged Château-Thébaud, chèvres, Cheese, chevre, Domaine de la Pépière, food, goat cheese, Marc Olivier, Melon de Bourgogne, Muscadet, pairings, Valençay, Valençay Affiné, white wine, Wine | 1 Comment »
In the spring of 2013, Ihsan and I decided to visit Sweden, Denmark and Norway on a quest for new and delicious foodstuffs. We assumed that we would find lots of pickled herring, canned fish, lingonberry jams, rye crackers and licorice. Overall, we did well, bringing back several new items to the shop. Continue Reading »
Posted in Candy & Confections, Producer Profile, Sweden | Tagged ammonium chloride, gluten free, Lakritsfabriken, licorice, liquorice, salmiak, salmiakki, salty licorice, salty liquorice, Stockholm, Sweden | Leave a Comment »
Aged Beers at Formaggio Kitchen Cambridge
Spring is here – at least that’s what the calendar says. For me, spring means cleaning, dusting off the shelves and in general, clearing out the gray left by the long, cold winter. While preparing for a white-glove inspection at Formaggio Kitchen this year, we happened upon two curious cases of beer. They were filled with an assortment of barley wines, sours, and stouts from 2010 and 2011 that had been stashed away by one of our previous beer buyers. Old beer? Why, of course! Continue Reading »
Posted in Beer | Tagged aged beer, aging beer, barley wine, Beer, cellaring, cellaring beer, Duchesse de Bourgogne, Hel & Verdoemenis, imperial red ale, imperial stout, Jolly Pumpkin, Jolly Pumpkin La Roja, lambics, Lost Abbey, People's Pint 2013 Imperial Stout, Red Poppy Ale, saison, saisons, sours, The People's Pint, White Birch, White Birch 2014 Indulgence Ale | Leave a Comment »
Xocolates Aynouse l’Artesà – Olive Oil and Candied Orange Peel Bars
In February 2013, while Ihsan and I were visiting our friend Pere Planagumà (head chef at the restaurant Les Cols in Olot, Catalonia), we stopped in the ancient historic city of Girona for a food show and discovered chocolate maker Francisco Javier “Xavi” Rodriquez Perez. Actually, Xavi recognized us — he used to be the chocolatier for another Catalan chocolate company. It was a nice reunion seeing Xavi and to learn that he decided to open his own company Xocolates Aynouse l’Artesà in the town of Agramunt. Continue Reading »
Posted in Chocolate, Producer Profile, Spain | Tagged Agramunt, Aynouse, cacao, Chocolate, cocoa beans, food, Pere Planagumà, Spain, xocolates, Xocolates Aynouse l'Artesà | Leave a Comment »
Ekiola Sheep in the Pyrénées Mountains
A trip through the French Basque country is one of distinct sights, scents, and flavors. Rolling hills of green pastures are punctuated by craggy mountain peaks and deep valleys, and sheep are everywhere! When Ihsan, Valerie and I traveled through the area in the fall, we tasted a huge array of sheep milk cheeses and an assortment of intense but beautiful wines. Here, we’re featuring a few of our favorite tastes: Ardi Gasnas from Fromagerie Pardou and Ekiola, and a killer red wine from Domaine Ilarria of Irouléguy. Ardi Gasna (or gazna) is Basque for “sheep cheese,” and these smooth, rich sheep cheeses are a specialty in the Pyrénées mountains.
Continue Reading »
Posted in Cheese, Jams & Preserves, Pairings, Wine | Tagged affineur, Ardi Gasna, Arraya, Arraya jam, biodynamic wine, brebis, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cheese, cheese pairings, cherry jam, dîme, Domaine Ilaria, Ekiola, Ekiola Ardi Gasna, fermier, fermier cheese, food, France, fromage, Fromagerie Pardou, Irouleguy, pairings, Pardou Ardi Gasna, Pyrenees, red wine, sheep, sheep cheese, Tannat, tithe, Wine | 1 Comment »