Posts Tagged ‘bean-to-bar chocolate’

Dark Milk Bar

Patric’s Dark Milk Bar – an example of craft chocolate’s dark side!

This post is part three of three of my interview with Carla D. Martin, “Professor of Chocolate” and Lecturer in the Department of African and African American Studies at Harvard University. Part one discussed the meaning of “craft chocolate” in North America, and part two questioned the idea of terroir and craft chocolate’s cost. Today’s post looks at North American craft chocolate’s dark side — so much of it is dark chocolate! What’s a milk chocolate lover to do?


Carla D. Martin

Carla D. Martin

(Rob) So lastly, most of the North American craft chocolate we carry at the store is dark chocolate. For those milk chocolate lovers out there who are approaching all these dark chocolates as a skeptic – any advice?

(Carla) This is one of my favorite questions to be asked. As I keep learning about tasting chocolate, I love talking with people about what they like – textures, flavors – and basically trying to prescribe chocolate that they might enjoy trying. You have to think about what kind of chocolate experience you want. Do you want to snack on it and finish it quickly, or do you want to really take your time and think about it as you eat?

Regarding dark chocolate, one of the most common misconceptions among consumers is that a percentage listed on a bar tells you all you need to know about that bar. The quality of the cacao and the making of the bar affect the experience of eating dark chocolate immeasurably. Furthermore, many people believe that 75%, for instance, indicates how much chocolate liquor there is in a bar, and expect that a bar like that will be very dark and bitter. In fact, that percentage most often refers to the combined amount of chocolate liquor and cocoa butter in the bar, allowing for a wide range of flavors and textures.

Not all 70% chocolate is created equal

Not all 70% chocolate is created equal

Formaggio Kitchen carries a couple of dark milk bars, and milk chocolate lovers are in luck because these can be especially delicious. I have a lot of students who are die hard milk chocolate lovers, and I’ll often introduce them to a dark milk bar and they’ll say “Oh wow, this is the best milk chocolate I’ve ever had,” not realizing that it’s got maybe 30-40% more cocoa content than the usual chocolate they eat. So that’s a really fun way to experience the difference varying chocolate content and quality can make.

I also have a lot of students who love milk chocolate with nuts, and of course a lot of dark chocolate bars have a roasted nut kind of quality to them, so if you want to explore dark chocolate, you can ask about bars with those tasting notes, such as Dick Taylor’s Ecuador bar. Others who love berries and citrus fruits might seek out dark chocolate with a similar flavor profile, such as Patric Chocolate’s Madagascar bar. I also think tasting chocolate more slowly can help people to better identify what they like. We are socialized to crunch and munch – just think of kids racing to eat their Halloween candy. But scarfing down dark chocolate can often cause you to miss most of the enjoyable flavors and highlight other things like acidity or astringency that people tend to like less.

In teaching about chocolate, I have the good fortune to observe how students’ tastes change over the course of a semester. We start off with the familiar – Hershey’s Kisses, Snickers bars, etc. – and gradually work our way toward the unknown. Many of the milk chocolate lovers routinely report “I just don’t like this” or “it’s much too bitter” when trying industrially produced dark chocolate. We don’t taste the finest craft chocolate bars until the last weeks of class, and when we get to the big reveal and they have their first taste of a dark craft chocolate bar they more often say “I didn’t know it could taste like this!” or at least “You know what, I didn’t hate that.” It might be that they don’t ever prefer dark chocolate to milk chocolate, like a lot of people don’t care for black coffee, and that’s totally fine. One student charmingly realized at the end of last semester that she probably doesn’t actually like chocolate that much, but definitely loves milk and sugar. Regardless, it’s important not to make the mistake of assuming that what we’ve always tasted is how things are supposed to taste forever, unchanging. And I guess that’s what this whole chocolate thing is really about for me – cultivating an open palate and mind, seeking to learn more, and thinking critically about food and culture.


Check out the rest of my interview with Carla D. Martin in parts one and two, and stay up-to-date on the latest chocolate-world happenings by checking out her blog. You can also follow updates on our chocolate selection through our newsletters.


Rob Campbell is a culinary adventurer, world traveler, science geek, and also the blog manager at Formaggio Kitchen Cambridge.

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Chocolate Terroir

A sampling of our selection of Madagascar and Ecuador bars

Earlier this month we posted part one of my interview with Carla D. Martin, “Professor of Chocolate” and Lecturer in the Department of African and African American Studies at Harvard University. In part one we talked about the meaning of “craft chocolate” in North America, both to the producer and the consumer. In this post I asked Carla to talk about what I consider to be two of the most interesting aspects of food production — terroir and cost.


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Formaggio Kitchen Chocolate  Section

A snapshot of part of the Formaggio Kitchen chocolate section

Not many people get to study food for a living, but even fewer study chocolate. Carla D. Martin, a Lecturer in the Department of African and African American Studies at Harvard University and “Professor of Chocolate,” studies social issues in the cacao and chocolate industry, from production and processing to personal consumption. She has also co-taught our class on chocolate here at Formaggio Kitchen, and stops by regularly for her favorite bars.

The world of chocolate, and North American craft chocolate in particular, has exploded in the last few decades. Building off of the rising popularity of fair trade and single origin products in the 1970s and 1980s, the French companies Bonnat, Valrhona, and Cluizel were the first to introduce single origin chocolate, bringing the concept of terroir formally to the world of chocolate consumption. Today, the number of artisanal, single-origin chocolatiers has skyrocketed, with our selection of around ten different producers making up just a small sampling of U.S. craft chocolates. When I first started trying the chocolates in our selection, I found defining craft chocolate, let alone picking a bar, pretty overwhelming. As part of my personal education efforts I sat down with Carla to talk about her views on the exciting world of North American craft chocolate, and what it all really means for chocolate lovers!


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Naive Chocolate

Domantas Užpalis is the creative chocolatier behind Chocolate Naive. Based in the small town of Giedraičiai, Lithuania (population of less than 1,000), he is one of very few bean-to-bar producers in Europe. Domantas does everything from sourcing the cacao beans, to roasting, winnowing, conching and tempering, all in a small farmhouse next to lake Kiementas on the Eastern side of Lithuania. (more…)

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