Posted in Cheese, Wine, tagged Chardonnay, cheese science, Comté, Domaine Montbourgeau Crémant du Jura, Försterkäse, food, Fort Sainte Antoine, French wine, Harbison, Jura, L'Étoile, Nicole Deriaux, Préférés de nos Montagnes, Savignin, sparkling wine, Wine on December 4, 2014 |
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Montbourgeau Cremant du Jura with (from left to right), Preférés de nos Montagnes, Harbison, Comté Fort Sainte Antoine and chestnuts, white truffles, and Bosc pears.
As the seasons change and the pastures are coated in frost, we look forward to some of our most decadently delicious cheeses of the year. Grass-fed milk is often prized for it’s buttery, vibrant yellow-orange color and mouth-watering flavor. These qualities are most present in cow’s milk alpine styles, like Comté or Gruyère, where beta carotenoids from grass (the same compound that give’s carrots their color) provide that deep yellow color and diacetyls, produced in fermentation, give us that characteristic “grass-fed” flavor. Summer’s milk is lean and grassy, making it a perfect raw material for harder, longer-aged cheeses with longevity and elasticity (try bending a piece of Comté). However, for the lavish, richly-textured, scoopable delights of the holiday season there is no substitute for winter’s milk. When the cow’s move off pasture and temperatures drop, their diet shifts to primarily hay and grain, and they produce less milk at each milking. As a result, the milk is much richer and sweeter and significantly higher in fat, protein, and lactose. This milk is ideally suited to making those soft-ripened cheeses that pair perfectly with a holiday meal, the globular palate-coating beauties that sink in to every nook and cranny of a crusty baguette.
These kind of winter-milk cheeses pair perfectly with the Montbourgeau Crémant du Jura, one of our favorite sparkling wines for tyrophiles (cheese-lovers).
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Posted in Cheese, Producer Profile, Travelogues, tagged A Taste of Place, affineur, Alpha Tolman, American cheese, Bayley Hazen Blue, Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, Cellars at Jasper Hill, Cheese, cheese aging, dairy, domestic cheese, Harbison, Moses Sleeper, Taste of Place, Vermont, Winnimere on March 25, 2014 |
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Inside a Jasper Hill Vault
Last month, I had the great opportunity to join two co-workers in a pilgrimage to the Cellars at Jasper Hill in Greensboro, Vermont. In previous posts, my colleagues have described the merits of Jasper Hill as the home of award-winning cheeses like Winnimere, as well as an innovative model for sustainable small-scale cheese production. Rather than repeat this much-deserved praise, I hope to share a reflection on my brief time at Jasper Hill as a whirlwind of sights, smells, and of course tastes. The tag line of Jasper Hill is, “A Taste of Place” and thus I will try my best to give you a little taste of my experience in this very unique place. (more…)
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Posted in Cheese, Cheesemaking, Local, Producer Profile, tagged Cellars at Jasper Hill, Cheese, cheesemaking, curds, food, Harbison, Jasper Hill Farm, whey on November 19, 2012 |
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This past summer, I had the opportunity to assist with cheesemaking at Jasper Hill Farm. One of my favorite cheeses made by the team in Greensboro, VT is called Harbison, a fairly recent addition to the line-up but no less spectacular than their other cheeses. (more…)
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